I think it’s the beds.

Since the nerve pain began on the flight out of Wellington, I’ve been wondering what caused it. I walked a lot in that city, but too much walking for my back creates a different kind of ache.

My back this morning hurt really, really bad. So bad it woke me up, and I’m pretty sure it was the mattress, which was firm so there must be another quality to mattresses besides firmness that affects how we sleep on them. All of the beds in New Zealand after the first night were too soft for me.

I moved from the inside bed to the outside bed to do my press-ups, which also hurt, which was troublesome, and await breakfast. Sitting up to eat was torture. Definitely not snorkeling today. This day will be a lay-down-and-iPad day (since no more laptop).

I did just that on the daybed outside, continuing to push myself to do the press-ups, because I know they work. Sure enough, they hurt less and my back bends got higher as the day went on.

Midday, I finally took a full shower and washed my hair. I’d rinsed off under the hose shower, but I’d been avoiding using it at length. For one thing, there is really no point in getting clean here. Between the dusty main road, getting in the pool, getting in the ocean, the humidity, needing to apply sunscreen and/or bug spray right after… there was always a reason not to. Also, it’s just odd to have a garden hose stream pouring down, and there’s no temperature adjustment, just on and off, so the hottest time of day was the ideal time. Today was that day.

After the stretching and the shower, my back was improving and I decided to walk the main road west instead of east as I’d been doing since I first searched for the ATMs. Once again, I found myself in an idyllic garden setting at Cafe Garam.

Upon my return to the villas, I saw no reason there shouldn’t be a repeat performance of yesterday’s pool lounging and sunset cocktail show (a tequila sunrise instead of arak this time).

Then dinner at one of the beach warungs. A fine routine I settled into! Alas, it’s time to move on tomorrow.

I was encouraged that my back improved over the course of the day and terrified to get back in that bed. I briefly considered whether I could sleep on the daybed outside, but… skeeters.

I brought one of my two lumbar cushions (seriously) to bed with me, which I’ve never done. Each of them emphasizes the arch of the back just above the lumbar area (extension!) in different ways. My plan was to put the pillow under me when I lay supine and use a standard pillow between my knees when I rolled onto my side.

And hope for the best.